The Sleeves:
Since the sleeves of the original costume are constructed from a shot-silk chiffon fabric (warp and weft are different, often contrasting colors), it was the most difficult to obtain, being impossible to replicate by dyeing methods. The original was also a crinkled chiffon, making it even more difficult to match. Thai Silks and other companies carry shot (iridescent) chiffon, however I have not located a source for the crinkled variety. Fortunately, Starfirephoenix located an excellent match in Australia and was kind enough to send me two meters. Since one layer was rather transparent and I lined my sleeves with a silver 8mm habotai silk I purchased from Gayfeather Fabrics in Madison (WI). The pattern I drafted was very basic, with one seam down the back. Due to the volume of the sleeve, it was wider than it was long.
I machine gathered my sleeves at the upper arm prior to sewing the sleeves closed. I used a small piece of bias tape to anchor the gathered seams. I believe the gathering on the original costume was done by hand. The bottom of the sleeve was also machine gathered into the cuff. The cuff was also constructed of the sleeve fabric, however it was anchored to a piece of very sturdy iron-on interfacing. The top of the cuff was cut lower in the back than the front to achieve the correct drape for the lower portion of the sleeve. The closure loops were constructed out of the silver 8mm habotai lining. A loop turner is required to make a small enough piece of ribbon tape. To ensure my loops were even and for ease of sewing, I first sewed them to a piece of bias tape stiffened with horsehair braid. I then inserted this entire piece between the shell and lining of the cuff. I made 8 covered buttons for each cuff using my sleeve fabric. Since the covered buttons and loops are virtually impossible to close by oneself, I made the cuff just large enough to squeeze my hand through without opening the loops.
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